Exploring hidden Japan with Instagram’s iconic “rainbow girl”
A self-styled rainbow girl and solo travel fairy from Berlin, I love to immerse myself in local cultures around the world. My expressive style is inspired by my love of art (I work as a freelance designer) but it also signals my identity as part of the global LGBTQ+ community. You could say it’s a form of empowerment, reflected in many layers: from my colourful presence on Instagram @colorcrrush, to my playful illustrations and exuberant hair colour.
Wearing glitter dresses or dying my hair hot pink (I haven’t had natural hair since I was 14) is my way of showcasing a positive attitude to life. It also signals to other people – especially those who identify as LGBTQ+ – that my online space is a place where they can feel welcome, stay awhile and be themselves.
My online space is a place where LGBTQ+ people can feel welcome
Out on the street, my bold look attracts lots of curiosity. Often, I get compliments or children coming up to me, saying, “Are you a princess?” Being this creative takes plenty of planning, though. When I’m travelling, I have to be super-organised with a spreadsheet detailing every item that I pack. That way I can repeat and combine various outfits; mixing things up so I can get, say, 20 styles from the same 10 pieces of clothing. On one occasion, I had to get my Mum to send me buckets of pink hair dye to Japan – because it was too expensive to buy there myself.
Growing up in Germany, I always told my parents that I was born on the wrong continent. I just felt like I did not belong, for reasons I couldn’t explain. From a very young age, I was drawn by East Asian culture and Japan. I devoured books on Japanese history, and I also had a penpal from Japan. I actually met her in person years later, which was really cool.
Even as a free-spirit, my first experience of solo travel was high-stakes. I decided to move to Japan for a year for a cultural exchange, as part of my degree in East Asian Culture and History. After graduating, I secured a scholarship for a Master’s programme at the University of Tsukuba in Japan’s Ibaraki prefecture. And then I stayed on for a further year, working as an assistant teacher to a professor at the university.
During this time, I had so much fun learning Japanese and developing my photography skills (I’m self-taught), as I travelled around the country, embracing local experiences. Looks-wise, I’m about as foreign as it gets in Japan. I’m tall with blue eyes and crazy hair, so people are always surprised when I start speaking the language fluently. It makes me much more approachable as a solo traveller, though.
It’s easier to connect with local communities when I’m on my own
I’ve found that it’s a lot easier to strike up a conversation and connect with local communities when I’m travelling alone. People really appreciate the effort it takes to get off the beaten track and visit these little, off-radar towns – a world away from Tokyo and the like. I often get approached by bemused residents saying, “What are you doing here?” or “Why would you come all this way?”
When I visited Gansen-ji, a very remote Buddhist temple in the mountains of Kyoto, I was the only foreigner there. When the monks realised I spoke Japanese, they gave me a private tour. It’s the kind of experience I could never have had without that ability to go off-radar and embrace local culture.
I’m independent by nature, so I love that solo travel enables me to change plans on a whim. I travelled for eight hours straight to visit two sites in Japan last November – Naruko Gorge, with fantastic autumn foliage, and Ginzan Onsen, which is one of Japan’s most famous and beautiful onsen towns.
Both places are located in the north of Japan, but the area’s infrastructure is not as developed as other places in the country. So, although both places are close, travelling between them by public transport – as I did – involved a massive, four-hour detour. Because I was on my own, however, I could afford to go out on a limb and follow my own rewarding (if exhausting) schedule.
People are always surprised when I start speaking fluent Japanese
In terms of the cultural difference of living in Japan, the biggest challenge I faced was in forming new friendships. Japanese people tend to be quite reserved and I found it hard to make close-knit relationships as someone who looks and acts so obviously “foreign”. Even with my language skills, I couldn’t always bridge that gap. For that reason, most of the friends I’ve made have either been fellow visitors living in Japan, or Japanese people who’ve lived abroad.
There’s a big LGBTQ+ community in Japan, but it, too, can be tricky to navigate. You’ll easily find gay bars and clubs throughout bigger cities like Tokyo. And Japan’s massively popular anime and manga scene often features same-sex and LGBTQ+ themes. But at the same time, there’s an unsaid expectation that you will keep your sexuality private. There’s a sense that society just doesn’t want to see two same-sex people – especially men – walking round holding hands.
One thing I really love about Japanese culture is the great care most people take when it comes to attention to detail. It’s something of a stereotype, but it also rings true. I remember when I was making dinner with some Japanese friends, showing them how to make German dumplings. The onions needed to be cut in a certain way, and my friends kept checking it. They were meticulous about getting it just right. The same approach is evident in the workplace, where teams always take time to mull over the little details.
My vision is to embrace the world, one rainbow at a time
Some people also struggle with Japan’s conformist approach to rules – particularly those that don’t seem to make any sense. But I welcome that feeling of structure, perhaps because it speaks to my identity as a rule-following German!
My time in Japan has sparked a lifelong appreciation for local, authentic experiences and travelling off-radar. Sometimes when I’m there, I just do nothing. Instead I absorb the pace of daily life, people-watching over a coffee or lunch. It’s all part of my vision to embrace the world, one rainbow at a time.
Sam's best ways to experience local Japan
1- Stay in a ryokan
One of my favourite experiences that you can find all across Japan, and that I always recommend, is to stay in a historic ryokan (a traditional Japanese guest house). Just embrace that slow way of living for one or two nights. Relaxation isn’t the only aim here; you’ll also get to experience a traditional kaiseki meal that is very seasonal, and always made with emphasis on local produce. A ryokan is such a crucial part of Japanese culture and history. And since you can find them in any prefecture, they are perfect no matter what your itinerary. My favourite ryokan stay so far has been Shima Onsen; a tiny village in the mountains of Gunma that inspired the Ghibli movie, Spirited Away.
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2 - Take part in a festival
Participating in a Japanese festival is the cheapest and most authentic way to experience Japanese culture. There are festivals all year round and I sometimes plan my itinerary around them, because I love the opportunity to connect with locals on a deeper level. There are so many festivals of different kinds surrounding the changing of the season (e.g. the Sapporo Snow Festival, or annual firefly festivals), as well as more traditional events (e.g. Bon-Odori or Tanabata). And some are simply unique (like a cursing festival held in December – who would have thought, in polite Japan?).
3 - Hop onboard a sightseeing train
Another truly unique way of exploring Japan is to take one of their many sightseeing trains. These are special trains that can be found all over Japan. They were designed specifically to make the journey part of your trip. Usually, you can book a course like breakfast or dinner, often using special local produce unique to the place you’re visiting, while watching the slowly changing scenery – as well as getting insider information from the train staff. It’s one of my favourite ways to explore new places in Japan.
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4 - Book in on a local workshop
I am a big fan of DOING something in another country rather than just looking at the sights. With its rich history, you can find a huge amount of fun workshops that’ll help you get closer to the essence of Japan. I remember learning to cook Japanese dishes from an old woman in a small village once, and her tips stay with me and my cooking to this day. We’ll also be doing some really amazing classes on the 12-day group trip to Japan that I’m leading with Flash Pack next year; including meditation on an overnight temple stay, and a ramen masterclass.
Flash Pack ambassador Sam Hodenius is a solo traveller, designer and illustrator who splits her time living between Japan and her homeland of Berlin. The founder of travel community @colorcrrush, she is hosting Flash Pack’s 12-day escape to Japan next year. Find out more and join her.
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